Hoan Kiem Lake's name points to the legend that is said to lie beneath its depths: Hồ Hoàn Kiếm means "Lake of the Returned Sword", alluding to the legend that the future Vietnamese emperor Le Loi received a sword from a magic turtle at the lake's edge.
Hoan Kiem Lake lies at the very heart of Hanoi in Vietnam, within the city's storied Old Quarter. So much of Hanoi's past and present is tied up in this scenic body of water.
The present-day Hoan Kiem Lake is a popular stop for couples' wedding photos and fitness buffs' morning workouts. And for the past few hundred years, the lake has served as a place of worship and a cradle for legends.
Hoan Kiem Lake's name points to the legend that is said to lie beneath its depths: Hồ Hoàn Kiếm means "Lake of the Returned Sword", alluding to the legend that the future Vietnamese emperor Le Loi received a sword from a magic turtle at the lake's edge.
Le Loi drove the Chinese out of Vietnam with the sword, which was then reclaimed by the turtle after the invaders had left.
Hoan Kiem Lake's Location
The lake is bordered by the streets of Pho Dinh Tien Hoang to the north and east, Pho Hang Khay at its south end, and Pho Le Thai To on the west. The sidewalks around the lake are shaded by trees, so the short walk (less than ten minutes) it may take you to walk from one end of the elongated lake to the other is bound to be pleasant even in sunny weather.
Once you cross to the lakeside, you'll find Hanoi at its most charming: old men playing Chinese chess on benches facing the lake, affianced couples getting glamour shots done in full wedding regalia, and (depending on the time of day) joggers and speed-walkers getting their morning constitutionals, all against the placid backdrop of the lake's waters.
Hoan Kiem Lake is one of Hanoi's key landmarks, a useful point of reference for getting your bearings around the city. Immediately to the lake's west lie a bustling fashion district clustered around Pho Nha Tho and Pho Na Chung. North of the lake, the Old Quarter's narrow streets are just waiting to be explored. South of the lake lies the French Quarter and the great eats of Hai Ba Trung.
Ngoc Son Temple
Hoan Kiem Lake's reflecting waters are punctuated by the Tortoise Pagoda (Thap Rua) at the south end and Ngoc Son Temple at Hoan Kiem Lake's north end.
Ngoc Son Temple may be reached by crossing The Huc (Morning Sunlight) Bridge, a graceful, red-painted wooden bridge. Ngoc Son is not just a museum, it's an active place of worship, where monks and devotees perform their religious duties. The smell of burning joss sticks pervades the air, which as a result feels thick and heavy.
The temple complex contains a number of interesting structures. The Pen Tower on the island's hill is a relatively recent addition; the Moonlight Tower (Dac Nguyet Lau) serves as a gateway into the temple from the bridge; and two walls display the names of students who passed the national examinations hundreds of years ago.
Ngoc Son Temple has stood on this island since the 14th century at least. The temple honors the war hero Tran Hung Dao, who thrice repelled invading Mongol hordes from China in the 12th century. The scholars Van Xuong and Nguyen Van Sieu also have altars dedicated to their memory.
The temple's main building houses altars, shops, and a large stuffed tortoise. Hoan Kiem Lake's turtles have largely passed into legend, due to pollution and the paving-over of the turtles' egg-laying grounds on the lakeshore. The turtles do crop up every once in a while - the turtle in Ngoc Son Temple was discovered in 1967, a specimen that weighed more than 400 pounds and spanned six feet in length. Another turtle was sighted in 1998. Today, the number of surviving turtles in Hoan Kiem Lake remains unknown.
The pavilion in front of the temple overlooks the lake. A bronze brazier stands in front of the temple façade, holding joss sticks left by devotees. The pavilion is usually swarming with worshipers and tourists enjoying the view.
To enter Ngoc Son Temple, an entrance fee must be paid just before crossing the bridge - VND 10,000 Dong ($0.5), available at a booth to the left of the bridge entrance. The temple is open daily, from 8:00am to 5:00pm.
By Michael Aquino - goseasia.about.com
